These are super useful and are built on a multi-tool design. Once you dig into the DIY AR-15 supplies, you’ll see some odd-looking wrenches. If you’re working with a clam-shell design, a delta ring tool can give you the leverage you need to pop them on or off.
Once the barrel is on and torqued correctly, you’ll want a hand guard. You’ll also need a pair of snap-ring pliers to open the retaining ring. Alignment is key, so you’ll need to pay close attention to how you work with the weld spring, the barrel nut, and the delta ring. The delta ring tool is nothing more than a handy pair of levers. It works in the same way, basically, and can mount to a bench alone, or you can get one that can be clamped in a bench vise. The Wheeler AR-15 Mag Well vise mounts to the bench.Īnd a mag well block will help support the lower. There are also aluminum blocks, too, that are specifically designed to hold barrels (and these will hold much tighter than any plastic options). They can be made of plastic, which is easy on AR-15 finishes. It is nothing more than a clam-shell design that fits inside a bench vise. It is designed to secure an upper when it is off the lower. The bench block is a very specialized AR-15 tool. The Wheeler Vise Block is a great choice for any DIY builder. And they’re exceptionally useful for swapping barrels, forends, and changing out stocks and such. But odds are you’ll build a number of ARs, so they’re worth investing in. There are a few tools that you’ll want that won’t have much use on any other gun. Brass hammers, too, have a similar use.Ī steel hammer can be used to tap a punch, but shouldn’t be used to persuade stuck parts to move. Nylon hammers are very safe and keep you from doing too much damage. AR-15 hammersĪlmost any hammer will do, but it is best to have a couple of options. A roll-pin punch has a flat face with a small nipple that indexes into the roll pins void, and it keeps you from flattening out the top of the pin as you hammer it out. These will often have a hole in the middle of the rolled-up pin (like the tube in a roll of paper towels) and you’ll need a roll-pin-punches to move them without damaging them. Some guns have roll-pins–thin sheets of steel that are rolled up to create the pin. Thin punches bend easily, so be careful with them. Punches come in a variety of diameters and each one corresponds to a pin in the AR that will need to be tapped in or drifted out. Brass is to keep you from buggering up steel (as the brass is softer than steel). You can’t escape the need for those, either, as all of the accessory companies will have different connection types.
AR15 MULTI TOOL FULL
Allen wrenches come in the L-shaped bent metal variety, which works, and the full kit of interchangeable bits, which is a must-have.Īlmost all of these kits will include star-bits, too. Most AR-15 connections are a bit more specific, though, and require a hex key, or, as I grew up calling them, an Allen wrench.
AR15 MULTI TOOL PRO
The Real Avid Gun Tool Pro is a good start for anyone wanting to start building (or even cleaning) AR-15s. The short one offers more control and will keep you from slipping up and gouging aluminum. The long ones may be good for getting into grips or stocks (especially on shotguns). For a gun kit, pick up a long screwdriver and a short-stubby one. Some components (like iron sights and optics) may require really common tools. If you’re utterly inept with basic hand tools, it may prove more challenging. If you consider yourself handy in any way, the job is doable. But the systems work.Īnd, while we’re on the subject, we’d like to add that building an AR-15 is right in the mid-range of the basic DIY scale. Some connections, like a delta ring or a castle nut, may not seem familiar–much less logical–to the average Joe. Where do parts connect? What can be removed by hand and what might require an actual tool?
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